By For decades, T&C has had a love affair with the Lone Star State—in fact we devoted the entire September 1979 issue to Texas, proclaiming on the cover that it was “The State We Can’t Do Without.”
And while our visit 46 years ago caused quite a stir (in a three-page story for Texas Monthly’s own September issue that year titled “The Beautiful and The Damned,” writer Michael Ennis reported, “Town & Country magazine came to Texas to record our sophistication, wealth and savoir faire—and all hell broke loose.”), we barely scratched the surface on who and what made Dallas tick, aside from a few social rankings and a photograph of doyenne Averille Browning taken by Norman Parkinson that placed her among the state’s 10 most prominent beauties. We came closer in 1986, giving Fort Worth a star turn with “fifth-generation Fort Worther” Karen Carter Fortson—the great niece of Kimbell Art Museum founder Kay Kimbell—appearing as our November cover star for a story dubbed, “The Good Fortunes of Fort Worth.” Even so, there has always been so much more to float about the bustling metropolis than its social swans.
With that, we have endeavored to share more of our love for Dallas-Fort Worth in recent years—through reportage on its staggering philanthropy, dedicated arts scene, and design savvy—and recognize that, along with many names on the Social Register, the places they once frequented have also changed: Dallas’s historic Neiman Marcus flagship is—maybe?—closing after 117 years (taking with it the Zodiac, an iconic haunt for ladies who lunch since 1953), while Stanley Korshak, the venerable Uptown department store, was acquired last month by Mitchells Stores. Despite the ever-shifting social, cultural, culinary and retail landscapes, contemporary Dallas-Fort Worth is brimming with its own particular brand of savoir faire—one that embraces both the old and new guards, as well as aesthete travelers, with incomparable Southern hospitality (and impeccable style).
Where to Stay
Originally built as the private residence for cotton baron Sheppard King and his wife Bertha in 1925, the Italianate estate now known as the Rosewood Mansion on Turtle Creek is an Uptown institution for out-of-towners looking for quiet sophistication and exemplary service. With its 142 rooms, including suites and a penthouse—and close proximity to the shops and restaurants in Highland Park Village—the five-star hotel is also home to its own private club-style restaurant and separate bar that pay homage to its Southern roots through décor and new American, French-influenced offerings.
In the heart of downtown’s Main Street District stands another 1920s landmark building steeped in West Texas oil-boom history that is now known as the Joule. Formerly the Dallas National Bank, the 28-story hotel was conceived by billionaire oil-and-gas man turned film producer Tim Headington, who not only transformed the property by adding a 10-story adjacent addition but helped revitalize downtown with its presence. With 160 rooms, suites, and penthouses, the Gothic high-rise is also home to a portion of Headington’s vast art collection, as well as two restaurants, a bar, a coffee shop, a Taschen bookshop, and a chic shop curated by Swoon, a local interior design firm. There’s also an award-winning full-service spa and wellness center (if you’re looking for the most restorative facial, ask for Lorena Solis).
“It’s sophisticated and charming at the same time.”
—Lisa Zabelle says of Bowie House
For a little over-the-top newness, Hôtel Swexan (a mashup of “Swiss” styling and “Texan” vibrato) opened in the Harwood District, in 2023, and instantly became a destination for travelers wanting a private-club feel. And it’s held that distinction, earning a Michelin Key for hospitality and a Michelin-recommended rating for its signature steakhouse, Stillwell’s. Uptown, there’s the Ritz-Carlton Dallas, Las Colinas, a tried-and-true favorite with 427 guest rooms, including its all-new villas, and an 18-hole golf course. Two forthcoming properties are opening in relatively quick succession: The Knox from Auberge begins taking guests (and residents) in 2026 and the Four Seasons at Turtle Creek will open its doors in fall 2027.
Venture about 40 minutes west of Dallas proper to discover Fort Worth’s Two Michelin Key Hotel, Bowie House. Part of the Auberge Resorts Collection, the 106-room boutique hotel also serves as a private gallery for owner Jo Ellard’s seminal art collection (with more than 400 works on display). The noted entrepreneur, horse breeder, and “cowgirl” developed the luxury property as an homage to Cowtown and its pioneering Southern spirit. “It’s sophisticated and charming at the same time,” says Lisa Zabelle, a Dallas resident who spent several nights at the resort last summer. “With all the Western art and Ralph Lauren-style furniture everywhere, it feels like you’ve walked into an episode of Yellowstone.” A leather- and wood-clad indoor-outdoor restaurant, a bar, and a terrace pool help make this an ultimate staycation destination. Be sure to take an art tour with gallery director Emily Gregoire.
Where to Eat
Perched atop the downtown luxury boutique Forty Five Ten, Mirador serves up an artfully prepared brunch (and lunch) in a light-filled glass box with panoramic views and plenty of Art Deco-inspired panache. Fortify yourself for the day ahead with the buttermilk pancakes and an order of the famous crispy chicken bites, along with a house Bloody Mary to wash it all down. And you’d be remiss not to order one of the signature caviar donuts; made fresh every morning, the glazed donuts are topped with Amber Kaluga and a dusting of edible gold. For lunch, the Mirador Burger, served on a molasses wheat bun, and the lobster roll are favorites of the local clientele.
Over in the Knox District, Georgie—though it’s open daily for dinner—is another Sunday brunch favorite. Executive chef and French Laundry alum R.J. Yoakum’s morning menu includes Chicken & Waffles, Biscuit & Duck Confit Gravy, and the sensational Georgie Burger—a Blackhawk Wagyu patty with cheddar cheese, bacon-tomato jam, and a fried egg. The Michelin-recommended restaurant also has a killer cocktail list; the Georgie, by far the most ordered drink on the list, is crafted with St. Elder, cucumber syrup, lavender, lime, Topo Chico, and a select spirit (we recommend Ketel One). The group behind this local haunt, Travis Street Hospitality, has also opened nearby Le PasSage, a French-influenced Asian-inspired dinner spot serving everything from a Five Spice Duck Breast to Pho Beef Carpaccio from executive chef Hou Lam “Dicky” Fung, who spent the last 15 years dreaming up similar dishes in the Mr. Chow ecosystem.
Also located in the Knox District, Mister Charles—another Michelin-recommended eatery—is not to be missed. With “an irreverent play on the classics,” executive chef Brendan Frankel serves up French and Italian dishes with a twist: corn-and-truffle beignets with a chive crème fraiche, a Bluefin crudo dressed with a Thai passion fruit dressing, and a 20-ounce, porcini-rubbed prime ribeye finished with a Bordelaise sauce and spring onions. The craft cocktail list is equally intriguing (the Crime of Passion and the Highland Park Pharmacy Penicillin are regularly on repeat). It’s also worth mentioning the opulently designed space is, on one hand, bright and airy, while its sex appeal is palpable as the evening progresses.
“The Chef’s lobster ceviche, the filet of salmon salad, and the signature pecan ball best paired with a tawny port.”
—Philanthropist Kaleta Blaffer Johnson’s perfect order at Café Pacific
Opened in 1980, Café Pacific in ritzy Highland Park Village is the see-and-be-seen spot for deal-making, three-martini business lunches, and dish sessions alike. Begin with an order of Point Judith calamari and a glass of Provençal rosé before moving on to either the absolutely delicious New England clam chowder or a classic wedge salad. By this point, you should have placed your martini order in preparation for the Wagyu steak frites or lemon sole Almandine (accompanied by a side order of asparagus fritti) that will be arriving shortly. For arts patron and philanthropist Kaleta Blaffer Johnson (whose mother Joan Blaffer Johnson was featured in our September 1979 issue), menu highlights include “the Chef’s lobster ceviche, the filet of salmon salad, and the signature pecan ball best paired with a tawny port.” Reservations are a must any time of day.
Nestled in the Design District, Tango Room is a classic steakhouse serving all the staples from Allen Brothers filets and a rack of lamb to pork chops from Pederson Farms, along with all the usual suspects, though slightly reimagined: heirloom carrots with a pistachio gremolata, brussels sprouts with cilantro in a sweet chili sauce, and a lobster mac with béchamel, parmesan, and chives. Equal to the hearty dishes is a “curated wine list rivaling the best this side of Bordeaux” featuring vintages from Harlan Estate, Quintessa, Lucien Le Moine, and Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande to name but a few. If you feel overwhelmed, ask sommelier Nick Burns for his recommendations. The atmosphere is welcoming without being pretentious, with a very apropos series of original “Gasoline Stations” screenprints by Ed Ruscha lining the dining room walls. Nearby you’ll also find the Mexican, a Monterrey-inspired dinner destination serving imaginative dishes. We recommend the Suiza de Pollo enchilada filled with roasted free-range chicken and cotija and smothered in a creamy green salsa—it’s muy beuno. And you can’t miss with the margarita lineup.
Get your fingers filthy at Jeffrey Hobbs’ Slow Bone, one of the city’s most popular Texas-style barbeque joints since 2013. Always on demand and direct from the smoker lovingly known as “Miss Jessie”: brisket (chopped or sliced to perfection), pulled pork sandwiches served on toasted challah, and the jalapeño cheddar sausage.
Make a point of reserving a table for dinner at Don Artemio in Fort Worth (even if you have to tack another day onto your trip). It’s more than a dining experience—think of it as a flavorful history lesson on Mexican culture and cuisine. The interior design and architectural styling are based on the old homes of Saltillo, Mexico, which are typically composed of clay bricks and have a patio at the center with rooms along the sides. Chef Juan Ramón Cárdenas’s menu is imbued with centuries of history but executed in a modern way. Start with nopalitos fritos, unique tender-fried cactus tossed with bacon and served with heirloom house-made blue corn tortillas, or the cilitos güeros rellonos de cabrito, chiles stuffed with slow cooked goat confit, pasilla vinaigrette, and caramelized onion. The cazuela de chorizo (house-made chorizo with brûléed panela cheese and oregano pickled onion) is a knock-out. End the night with the tres leches del desierto, a deconstructed tres leches dessert.
Just a few blocks away within Bowie House is Bricks & Horses, a “modern iteration of a seasonal chophouse.” Serving truly Texan fare, executive chef Antonio Votta also offers some less traditional items like a Ritz crackerss and dips appetizer and a fancy Caesar made with seasonal bitter greens, toasted sesame dressing, and an umami crisp. The six-ounce cowgirl filet mignon is superb served as-is, bacon wrapped, or Oscar- or Diane-style with a side of buttered mashed potatoes and chili glazed green beans.
If you think barbecue can’t achieve elevated dining status, head to Goldee’s BBQ in Fort Worth, one of the first restaurants in Texas to receive a Michelin Star, which happened only last year. Lines are long, but worth the wait for favorites like brisket (without burnt ends), beef ribs, and pork belly, along with side orders of brisket beans and potato salad. The banana pudding is worth saving room for.
Where to Shop
Highland Park Village—with its alphabet soup of luxury retail outposts from Alexander McQueen, Chanel, and Hermès to Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford, and Valentino—is basically Rodeo Drive in miniature and set within the town of Highland Park (which is the Beverly Hills of Greater Dallas). As it turns out, landscape architect and urban planner Wilbur David Cook designed the master plans for both independent towns, so Angelenos often have a bit of déjà vu driving along the tree-lined streets. Within the outdoor shopping mecca itself is the Conservatory, Brian Bolke’s ultra-upscale, super chic boutique and integrated café, Teak Tearoom. Any given week you can find designers like Christian Siriano, Adam Lippes, Brandon Maxwell, or Jonathan Cohen holding trunk shows, and there’s always a phenomenal mix of jewelry, accessories, fragrance, books, and home décor mingling with the high fashion offerings across the second-floor shop’s 8,000 square feet of well-curated retail space. Come to shop but stay for the lemon pistachio tart.
If you’re in the market for serious (and we mean serious) jewelry for a birthday, anniversary, or equally special occasion—or for yourself—you’re probably headed to Sue Gragg Precious Jewels. For decades, Gragg has been the go-to for discerning Dallasites as well as heavy-hitters in the worlds of politics and entertainment. In 2001, she designed a much-discussed suite of diamond jewelry for then president-elect George W. Bush’s wife Laura and counts Rihanna among her most loyal clients (just search #suegragg on Instagram to catch a glimpse some of the singer’s impressive purchases). Her salon is by-appointment-only and, if you’re lucky enough to land a spot on the calendar, you might get to meet her equally charming husband Jimmy. “If you’re in Dallas in November or December, be sure to make an appointment for her Christmas show,” says client and friend Leigh Ann Clark. “You can play dress-up with all the gems before you take home your favorite!”
Vintage Martini (aka Martini Consignment) has been a coveted source for vintage and contemporary fashion and accessories since launching as an online store in 1999. Opening its first brick-and-mortar in 2007, owners Ken Weber and Greg Kelly have since expanded with a dedicated men’s store in an adjacent space. Find 1960s and ’70s Chanel, Courrèges, and Geoffrey Beene, and score ’80s runway pieces from Bill Blass and Yves Saint Laurent. There’s also plenty of contemporary Alaïa, Celine, Commes des Garçon, and Castlebajac to be had—and don’t get us started on the piles and piles of designer accessories. “Years ago, I bought a vintage embroidered Valentino jacket from the 1980s and wore it to the shows in Paris,” says stylish social sylph Christen Wilson. “Valentino himself looked shocked when he saw it and said, ‘Wow, you have a good one there—I haven’t seen that jacket in decades!’” This November they’re launching an exclusive Pierre Cardin Heritage Collection, available online and in store, which already has tongues wagging. For strictly new designer fashion, Forty Five Ten is a well-curated multi-level boutique in Downtown Dallas offering established and up-and-coming labels like Dries Van Noten, Jacquemus, Khaite, Rick Owens, Huishan Zhang, and Magda Butrym. They also stock a full range of accessories, homewares, and beauty products that often make it impossible to be on time for your reservation at Mirador.
“They’re so effusive about Western Americana that it’s completely contagious to their clients.”
—Cameron Silver, on the husband-and-wife duo behind CHIEFFALO Americana
If you’re in the market for contemporary artworks by emerging and mid-career artists (who also happen to have connections to Dallas), Erin Cluley Gallery has curated a well-rounded roster of talent working in painting, photography, sculpture, and new media. A former exhibitions director at Dallas Contemporary, Cluley’s assemblage of artists—from Chivas Clem and Kaleta Doolin to Du Chau and Nic Nicosia—have works in the permanent collections of formidable institutions like the Centre George Pompidou in Paris, London’s Victoria and Albert Museum, and the Guggenheim in New York City.
Add something a little more western to your wardrobe—and your life—by visiting CHIEFFALO Americana in Fort Worth. Founded by husband-and-wife team Rodger and Jackie Chieffalo in 2020, the boutique specializes in renovating and fitting clients with vintage beaver felt hats from the 1950s and ’60s—a passion project of Rodger’s for 20 years. Jackie, on the other hand, heads up the curation of vintage and contemporary clothing and accessories from small-batch manufacturers and artisans, as well as one-of-a-kind design objects. “They’re so effusive about Western Americana that it’s completely contagious to their clients,” shares fashion insider Cameron Silver, who believes the couple are “amazing ambassadors for today’s Fort Worth.” Pull on a pair of Buttercup Boots from San Antonio-based Fraulein Boot Company, gussy up with a Guajardo Studio embroidered silk tie, snag a vintage “Rodeo” vest hand-painted by artist Nicholas Gemello or a refurbished vintage Nickel Silver “Longhorn” belt buckle. Open through the summer, a satellite location in Bowie House has a full range of offerings.
What to See
Since holding its first exhibition in 1903, the Dallas Museum of Art has established itself as one of state’s most formidable contemporary art museums dedicated to presenting works across cultures and periods while keeping diverse communities at the center of its activities. On display (through July 6), “Marisol: A Retrospective” dedicated to enigmatic 1960s Pop artist Marisol Escobar, and opening May 7, “Return to Infinity: Yayoi Kusama”, that includes All the Eternal Love I Have for the Pumpkins, a version of her beloved Infinity Mirrored Rooms. The Renzo Piano- and Peter Walker-designed Nasher Sculpture Center is a repository for one of the most revered collections of modern and contemporary sculpture in the world and includes more than 300 masterpieces by Calder, Giacometti, Matisse, Picasso, Rodin, and Serra, among countless others. The ability to get up close and personal, in its manicured one-and-a-half-acre garden, with pieces like Willem de Kooning’s Seated Woman, Joan Miró’s Moonbird, and the Haas Brothers’ whimsical Let There Be Street Light make for an illuminating experience.
Celebrating its 125th season, the Dallas Symphony Orchestra continues to shape the landscape of classical music with current music director, Grammy Award-winning conductor Fabio Luisi, at its helm. From Beethoven’s Piano Concerto No. 5 in May to this October’s performances of “Dolly Parton’s Threads: My Songs in Symphony,” an evening with the DSO is a must.
Along with a few friends, Southern Methodist University sophomore Truman Wilson, son of well-known art collectors Christen and Derek Wilson, organized the first Corsa de Villa in January 2023 as an invitation-only private car show where owners—from tech entrepreneurs and dedicated gear heads to renowned local philanthropists—can share their passion for supercars. Taking place on a bi-monthly cadence (Dallas weather permitting) in Highland Park Village’s parking lot, past highlights have been a 1969 Lamborghini Miura S, a 2017 Pagani Huayra Roadster, and a 1999 Shelby Series 1 that was shown by the Shelby Family itself. But the chance to participate (or to even learn the next showcase date) means knowing someone on the inside, so start networking.
If you’re up for a gay ol’ time after hours, T&C had a raucous time at the Tin Room—one of the city’s best known gay bars—following a black-tie gala at the Dallas Museum of Art. We made our way to the city’s Oak Lawn area for some Chippendales-style eye candy, dancing and endless pitchers of beer.
The Modern Art Museum of Forth Worth is the oldest art museum in Texas, and its seminal collection and ground-breaking exhibitions are legendary. Designed by architect Tadao Ando, its 53,000 square feet of gallery space houses works like Mark Bradford’s Kingdom Day, Archile Gorky’s 1947 The Plow and the Song, Mark Rothko’s White Band No. 27 from 1954, and Martin Puryear’s 1996 ash and maple sculpture, Ladder for Booker T. Washington. “The Modern holds one of the most impressive art collections in North Texas,” confirms Blaffer Johnson, who knows a thing or two about art, considering her family founded Houston’s Blaffer Art Museum in 1973. Across the road, the Kimbell Art Museum’s collection of masterworks offers a powerful juxtaposition to its neighbor’s noteworthy holdings. Works include paintings by Edvard Munch, Paul Cézanne, and Caravaggio. Up through June 22, “Modern Art and Politics in Germany 1910–1945: Masterworks from the Neue Nationalgalerie, Berlin,” chronicles life there during the first half of the 20th century through the eyes of world-renowned artists of the time.
