Fascinating architecture and good shopping... Le Havre is the European city break you consider next

Le Havre’s post-war architecture used to make it a figure of fun. Today, it’s what makes it fashionable, says Ronan O’Shea

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Design influence: the commercial centre of Le Havre
Alamy Stock Photo
Ronan Oshea6 November 2017

Despite celebrating its 500th anniversary in 2017, Le Havre remains under the radar of most UK travellers — but it should not remain the case for much longer.

The northern port city was granted Unesco status in 2005 for its unique, concrete-heavy architecture designed by the architect Auguste Perret, who was tasked with rebuilding a city flattened by bombs at the end of the Second World War.

Perret’s work was initially greeted with disdain from locals, who balked at his designs constructed in a period characterised by extreme austerity. In recent years, however, it has gained recognition — both for its unique nature and Perret’s understated flair for working with cheap materials and using what was available.

Among the buildings you will find subtle differences in the stonework and windows designed to maximise light. Perret’s talent for recycling is evidenced at St Joseph’s Church, where seats from a bombed-out cinema make up the pews. The town hall, with its sea of French flags and dominating tower, stands out in the centre of town.

Artistic installations at the port

Perret isn’t the only architect to have redrawn Le Havre. Oscar Niemeyer designed Le Volcan (levolcan.com), a hulking, volcano-shaped cultural centre in the city centre — locals call it “the yoghurt pot” — which reopened in 2015 after a facelift and has regular events in its two auditoriums. MuMA (muma-lehavre.fr) is the city’s contemporary art museum, a glass-walled building perched on the beach. Inside, Monets, Manets and Renoirs jostle for attention with the views out to sea.

It’s only in the hilly suburbs that I find a few examples of Le Havre’s original architecture: houses with brightly coloured doors and arched windows, and the 19th-century Chapelle Notre-Dame des Flots towering above the city.

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But while Perret’s work may have helped the city receive the nod from Unesco, it’s away from the city’s fêted concrete façades that I find a different Le Havre, one with a lively bar and café scene, and a smattering of excellent restaurants. Bistrot Grenadine (bistrot-grenadine.fr) is more indie-rock, tattoos and craft beer than Fifties architecture. On the beach, Saison 2 (saison-2.fr) is a laidback, international place, more burgers and fries than moules et frites. Back in town, Le Chat Bleu promises “jazz and friendship” over dinner and delivers on both fronts — impressive, since I’m on my own and usually hate jazz.

 Henri Georges’ Signal statue outside the Musée Malraux
Rex Features

There’s shopping that any self-respecting hipster would enjoy too. En route to Le Volcan I find Kilo Shop (kilo-shop.com), a pay-per-kilo vintage store selling everything from hi-vis Eighties Adidas tracksuits to flapper-style cloche hats, and LoHo (loho.fr), specialising in trendy Le Havre souvenirs.

And then there’s Les Bains des Docks (vert-marine.com), Le Havre’s “aquatic centre” and a work of art in itself. Opened in 2008 and designed by Jean Nouvel, its modernist, blocky buildings — mid-century meets Mykonos — house 12 pools, Jacuzzis and saunas as well as a balneotherapy spa. It was, says Nouvel, inspired by ancient Roman baths, with its sense of ritual, the ability to visit it all year round, and its use as a meeting space as well as a work-out area — and it’s worth the £4.30 ticket price for its looks alone.

Fascinating architecture, good shopping and a design-led swimming pool — it’s not the weekend break I thought it would be. After decades of being considered a sight for sore eyes, Le Havre has suddenly hit its stride. And it hasn’t half adjusted well.

Details

Brittany Ferries (brittany-ferries.co.uk) go from Portsmouth to Le Havre from £65 return. The crossing takes five and a half hours. Hotel Oscar (hotel-oscar.fr) has doubles from £44, B&B. The writer travelled with Aferry (aferry.co.uk).